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by Manos Angelakis
2007 Vintage.
The ‘07 vintage seems to be outstanding in most wine producing areas of the world.
During the last few weeks, I have tasted barrel samples (en primeur) or early bottlings of the vintage and, I’m happy to report, the results ranged from very good to excellent. The 2006 vintage, though very challenging for vintners, was very good but limited in volume, especially in Bordeaux and the German noble wine regions, but the 2007 will definitely surpass both the quality and certainly the quantity of the 2006.
The first 2007 wine I tasted was the Jean Baptiste, Riesling Kabinett, a German wine from Weingut Gunderloch, a premier Rheinhessen winery. Aromatic, off dry, with a nose of green apples, peaches, and hints of fresh almonds; it was very well balanced.
Another charmer was the 2007 Riesling Berncasteler Badstube Kabinett, from Dr. H. Thanich, a famous winemaking family business from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer area. The grapes for dry and off dry wines are picked and vinified first (Kabinett Prädikate) so, though the harvest is usually rather late towards the end of the year, they are the first to be bottled. This wine had honey, prickly pear, and apricot on the palate with a long and elegant finish.
Another interesting Riesling was the entry level QbA Noble House, from Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler, another very good Mosel-Saar-Ruwer producer. Now, entry level wines are nor usually given the care a Prädikate wine gets, yet this very dry Riesling was aromatic, refreshing, with nice acidity.
A new, to me, wine. Very dry, with a bracing acidity, was the 2007 Riesling Qualitatswein Trocken from the Fitz-Ritter winery in Pfalz. Another entry level Riesling with an interesting minerality on the palate, it would be excellent with fish and seafood. From the same producer, the 2007 Gewürztraminer Spätlese was vinified to very light sweetness, and was very aromatic, with honeysuckle, roses, and lichee on the nose.
Raimund Prüm, the owner and winemaker at S. A. Prüme, a Mosel producer of excellent, finely crafted Rieslings, was behind the Prüm counter at the Palm Bay Imports roadshow in Newark. His two entry level wines, 2007 Blue Slate and 2007 Essence, were aromatic, off dry – the Essence was slightly sweeter – classic Rieslings. Two absolutely charming wines that should be on every summer table.
During my recent Brazilian journey (see Brazilian Wines), I tried a number of the 2007 en primeur wines. Especially good were blends of Tannat and Merlot or Cabernet. Also, there were a number of Merlot monovarietal wines that were as good as any other New World Merlot bottle. Very few of these wines are currently in the US market, though importers in Switzerland and Germany have been bringing them to the European market for a few years now. Names to look for are Miolo, Casa Valduga – they also make a wonderful 15 year-old Brandy that tastes like a top of the line, aged Armagnac – Don Laurindo, Boscato, Cooperativa Garibaldi, Perini, and Dal Pizzol to name but a few.
Finally, Bordeaux en primeur. The producers of the Right Bank, held an en primeur tasting of the 2007 vintage at Chanterelle, a well known, classic French restaurant in Manhattan’s TriBeCa district. The event was very well attended, standing room only, by both wine buyers and press. A number of the winery owners themselves were present to showcase their wines.
From my notes; wines that I thought were very interesting and should be acquired for a well-rounded cellar:
Nadine Picant, owner of Château Hostens-Picant in the Sainte-Foy appellation, presented two very nice wines. The red, Lucullus, a blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon was, though young and fruity, smooth and well structured with a nice balance. Medium-bodied but well concentrated, with a nose of plum, red stone fruit and a hint of cedar. Soft and easy on the palate, it will be ready to drink as soon as it is released. The white, was rather spicy, with a medium body and medium acidity, but a classic white Bordeaux nevertheless. A bit shy on the nose, it was quite tasty and interesting.
A full body, dark forest berries on the nose and mouth, from Pomerol, Domaine de l’Eglise, is 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Frank. This is one wine that will need a few years in bottle for the tannins to soften their edge. Cellar and enjoy.
Clos des Jacobins is a winery with a long history. The wine presented, 70% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Franc and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon was very aromatic with pronounced tannins that will also need a few years in cellar to smooth out. Aromas of blackberry, toasty oak and roasted coffee beans. A classic Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Clos des Jacobins is full-bodied, with a long finish.
Another Saint-Emilion Grand Cru was Château de Pressac. Jean-François Quenin bought the chateau in 1997 and is bringing its wines up to the level of the great vintners of Saint Emilion. Initially a bit shy on the nose and with firm tannins, nevertheless it is mouthwatering and very well balanced. 73% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Pressac (the name for Malbec in the region), 1% Carmenère. This Bordeaux would pair well with a roast leg of lamb.
Château Carignan Prima, is a powerful but tannic blend of 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc from hand harvested grapes. Will need a few cellar years to settle and mellow, but is well worth considering.
Salud!
© March 2008 The Oenophile Blog. All rights reserved.
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