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by Manos Angelakis
Good Wines from Argentina
Since the 16th century, winemaking grapes from varieties imported initially from Spain and Portugal and a bit later from France and Italy grow on the sun drenched east slopes of the Andes. Argentina’s vintners have adapted many of the noble varietals to the indigenous terroir and are producing diverse and delicious wines. However, two varieties, Malbec and Torrontés, have adapted so well that they are now responsible for some of the best wines and are considered Argentina’s “national” grapes.
At a recent event, we tasted some very impressive samples of Argentina’s better wines from the 2002, 2003 and 2004 vintages, as well as nice sparklers both vintage dated and non-vintage.
The most impressive were:
Kaiken; a project of one of Chile’s premier winemakers, Aurelio Montes. Two varieties selected from the best Mendoza vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, have been elevated to the highest possible quality. The wines made from them are a true expression of the Mendoza climate and terroir and present us with personality and elegance.
There were four very distinct bottles from the 2004 vintage: Two Reservas, a Cabernet Sauvignon, and a Malbec; the Malbec is almost ready to drink, soft and alluring with ripe berry fruit and floral hints. The Cabernet needs a few more years in bottle, but promises a wonderfully full-bodied wine, a meat-eaters delight, that offers a very interesting bitter chocolate accent in the long finish. Two other wines marked Kaiken Ultra, were actually ultra-premium blended versions, the one marked Cabernet Sauvignon, is a blend of 90% Cabernet and 10% Malbec, and the one marked Malbec, is 90% Malbec and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Malbec was a very complex wine with dry cherries, chocolate and minty notes with a lingering finish, while the Cabernet Sauvignon exhibited a raisiny profile with coffee, vanilla, and ripe black fruit on the nose and silky tannins. For the price, all these bottles are an excellent investment.
Some interesting sparklers from Suá; Espumoso Brut, Espumoso Limón and Espumoso Fresa. The Espumoso Brut is reminiscent of a dry cava, and is made in the Charmat method from Chenin Blanc and Ugni Blanc grapes. Both fruit flavored sparklers are made with a 98.5% sparkling wine base and 1.5% fruit pulp. Good for cooling off in hot weather, both offer a refreshing acidity, in either lemon or strawberry flavors.
From the same producer, two frizzante (lightly sparkling) wines. Frizzante Blanco and Frizzante Tinto. The white had a nose of tropical fruit and flowers while the palate was deliciously lightly sweet and elegant. A blend of 40% Chardonnay, 30% Torrontés, and 30% Chenin Blanc. The red was a little too sweet for my taste, but I’m sure it would delight individuals raised with Coke and Pepsi. Ripe black forest berries on the nose. Composition is 60% Sangiovese, 30% Bonarda, and 10% Torrontés.
From Navarro Correas. 2004 Collección Privada Cabernet – Merlot – Malbec. A nice meat eater’s blend. Needs more cellar time to subdue the exuberance of youth but should mellow to a respectable middle age. From the same vintage there are also individual varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, and Syrah. All are young, some more ready to drink than others but with good aging potential. I would not be ashamed to offer any of them on my table. Great value for the price.
From Finca Las Moras. 2004 Bonarda from the San Juan valley. A nice tasting wine, very fruit forward “New World” styled. Red berry and cherry aromas with citrus and saddle leather nuances. On the palate, tart forest berries, vanilla and spice with touches of toast. Full body, medium finish An excellent buy for the price. From the same producer 2004 Mora Negra. An interesting, rather oaky wine with pronounced coffee and maple on the nose. Sour cherry and cassis on the palate with overtones of fresh black figs and chocolate. Solid, spicy finish. Needs bottle age to round out and mellow, but will reward the patient wine-lover. Lay down for at least a year; it will be well worth the investment.
Finally from Bodega El Portillo. 2005 El Portillo Sparkling Brut. A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noire, this is a well priced sparkler that can give much higher priced Champagnes a run for their money. If tango is your dance, this should be your beverage. With tropical fruit on the nose with a hint of honeysuckle, a small but ample bead, and citrusy toast on the palate, this is a frankly sensual sparkling wine. Very well priced.
To your health!
© November 2006 The Oenophile Blog. All rights reserved.
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