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by Manos Angelakis
Bernard Magrez Vertical
I’ve talked about vertical tastings before and this was another opportunity to understand how wines develop over the years under proper cellar conditions, as well as the yearly climatic influences on a vintage. This vertical tasting was based on classic clarets from some of the finest châteaux owned by Bernard Magrez. It was sort of this year’s venture into Bordeaux. Its not that I don’t like the wines, it’s just that the really good ones are so expensive.
The wines were:
Château Pape Clement, Pessac Léognan, a Grand Cru Classeé de Graves, years 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, and 2005. Consulting oenologist, Michel Rolland.
The 2000 vintage is ready to drink, and will stay at its peak for another 10 to 15 years. Colored a dark, almost opaque ruby with purple highlights, it is a blend of equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, with stunning aromas of black currant, wood smoke, cocoa, cherries, and toasty oak. It is full-bodied, with silky tannins, ripe fruit, and chocolate aftertaste. A wine of extraordinary concentration, elegance, and complexity. Rated at LWM94 points.
The 2001 vintage is almost ready to drink, thought the tannins are still very pronounced. Very dense cherry red with orange/red highlights. Multilayered, medium-bodied with exceptional concentration; soft and supple. It has a classy, camphor, plum, and cassis bouquet with a long spicy finish. Still needs a couple years of cellar time but should be at peak by 2009 and will remain there for another 10 or so years. Rated at LWM92 points.
The 2002 vintage was very good but certainly not at the level of the 2000. Still closed, slightly astringent, and tannic, it will require long cellaring. Bouquet of cassis, mulberries, wood smoke with floral notes. Long and persistent finish. Rated at LWM91 points.
The 2003 vintage has great freshness and is ample on the palate, offering supple and silky tannins with aromas of black currant, plums, wood smoke, tobacco, and toasty oak. Very dense cherry red with slightly purple edges. It appears to be on a fast evolutionary track, but it should last 15-20 years. Rated at LWM93 points.
The 2004 vintage is very aromatic, with blackberry, quince, and red fruit on the nose as well as certain floral notes, and a hint of oak. The fruity palate is accompanied by elegant tannins with aromatic persistence that is very long, displaying chocolate notes. A truly harmonious wine. Rated at LWM93 points.
The 2005 vintage, though extremely young, already shows the possibility of becoming a potential legend. It boasts a dense purple color along with a smoky bouquet displaying plums, chocolate, tobacco, cassis, licorice, and subtle oak. Full-bodied with beautifully fresh acidity, tremendous definition, and a powerful, moderately tannic, super-concentrated finish. It is, in my opinion, one of the finest Pape Clements of the last three decades. Rated at LWM98 points.
Another château in the tasting was Château Fombrauge, a Saint Emilion Grand Cru. The vintages were also 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, and 2005. Consulting oenologist, Michel Rolland.
The 2000 vintage is ready to drink now, deep ruby hued with lighter garnet/ruby highlights. Very integrated nose of vanilla, cassis, black cherry, and a touch of licorice and orange zest, with the distinctive super-ripe character found only in the greatest Bordeaux vintages. Rich, off-sweet mouthfeel, nice concentration through mid-palate, nice long finish. Abundant yet soft tannins that will allow it to improve for an additional 5 to 10 years in a cellar. This is Merlot at its best. Rated at LWM92 points.
The 2001 vintage has the deep, rich color of fully ripened grapes, with aromas of jammy plum, bell pepper, coconut, blackcurrant, and classy vanilla oak. There is softness here but an initial smoothness gives way to impressive levels of alcohol and tannin. Rated at LWM90 points.
The 2002 vintage is inky ruby colored with lighter garnet edges. Ready to drink now. A sweet nose of graphite, mocha, cassis, black cherry, and toasty oak. Thick texture, with slightly dusty tannins, and a long concentrated finish. Will drink well for the next 7 to 10 years. Rated at LWM90 points.
The 2003 vintage is almost ready to drink. Blackberry, damp earth, and roasted hazelnuts on the nose. Medium-bodied, with huge but ripe tannins and a long chocolate, berry and vanilla aftertaste. Some more bottle age will considerably improve this wine. Rated at LWM90 points.
Unfortunately, I did not care for the 2004 vintage. Very young, tannic, and astringent, it has a long way to go to become enjoyable. A real disappointment. Rated at LWM 82 points.
The 2005 vintage was a much much better wine. The final blend consisted of 77% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a dense purple/garnet color. Bouquet of toffee, graphite, black cherry, and currants. Medium to full-bodied with moderate tannins, more structure than usual, loads of glycerin, and a persistent finish. It should be drinkable in 2 to 3 years, and evolve for 10t o 12. Rated at LWM91 – 92 points.
There were other wines in the tasting, some were interesting, and some were not.
Individually impressive was the 2005 Magrez Fombrauge. A blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Black/purple in color. Sweet aromas of creme de cassis, blueberry, graphite, and espresso. Opulent and full-bodied, with tremendous viscosity and really long legs. Rated at LWM90 points.
2005 Château Les Grande Chènes, Cru Bourgeois from Médoc. Traditional blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with a smaller proportion of Merlot and a soupçon of Cabernet Franc. Still “in diapers”, this is a very typical Claret with great concentration. Strength, freshness, and balance define this subtle wine. Will age well. Very good price/quality ratio. Rated at LWM88 points.
2000 Château La Tour Carnet. 4eme Grand Cru Classé Haut Médoc. A ready to drink opaque purple wine, from very ripe grapes, a blend of 58% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon with a touch of Cabernet Franc. Nose of cassis, violets, black cherries, and pencil with some smoky oak and light vanilla at the finish. Very well balanced on the palate. It is drinking well now and will continue for another 10 or so years. This is a very good Bordeaux for not a lot of money. Rated at LWM89 points.
2005 Château La Tour Carnet. Really sweet and juicy, with plenty of fruit and quite lush. Very intense color shows a deep extraction. Aromas of currants, berries and a concentration of blackcurrant as well as of jammy fruits. Full-bodied palate, with silky tannins and light vanilla in the medium finish. Very well done and a good value. Rated at LWM90 points.
To your health!
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