By Manos Angelakis
 

“Cierzo” is a strong wind that blows from the mountains over the vineyards of Cariñena, Spain, subjecting the grapevines growing on poor, limestone and clay soil, to additional stress that forces the plants to generate superior berries with concentrated tannins, high sugars, and intense aromas.

Cariñena is in the province of Zaragoza, which is highly influenced by the cierzo. It is also part of the ancient Kingdom of Aragón, the reputed source of Garnacha, one of the grape varieties planted very extensively around the Mediterranean. Garnacha ripens late, so it needs hot, dry conditions to avoid many of the grape diseases created by humidity in the fields; the cierzo creates the necessary conditions for superior grapes.

Garnacha Tinta in Spain, Grenache Noir or Alicante, or Carignan Rousse in France, or Cannonau in Sardinia, this grape variety makes deep red wines, that are spicy, berry-flavored and soft on the palate. Grenache is mostly known as the base varietal for wines from Chateauneuf du Pape, Cotes du Rhône, and Gigondas. In the New World, Australia has extensive plantings of Grenache and has been very successful in making full-bodied Grenache-dominated red blends. White Grenache is a very important grape variety in France, where it is the fourth most widely planted white variety. In Southern France and Sardinia, the mutants Grenache rose and Grenache gris are also making pale rosé and lightly tinted white wines.

At a press lunch, Grupo BSV (Bodegas San Valero) presented two excellent Garnacha wines and a Tempranillo; all created specifically for the US market. The 2008 Sierra de Viento Tempranillo was a very young wine with a strong color and high aromatics – very floral and fruity – that tasted almost like a good Beaujolais Nuveau.

The two Garnachas, created to be drunk upon purchase, were Gran Selection Garnacha 2006, a very nice, deep colored, full bodied wine with good structure and well integrated acidity. The 2007 Sierra de Viento Garnacha Old Vines, is made from over 30-year-old vines. Low yields and high fruit quality is achieved by canopy management and green harvest. Temperature control and daily density checks during fermentation, as well as judicious pumping over, create wines with deep red color, a garnet hued rim, and violet highlights. After fermentation is completed, the wine is transferred to new French oak barriques where it is left for three months, then to American oak where it continues aging for five more months. This is a very elegant wine with aromas of ripe red fruit, spicy, toasty notes, and hints of cedar, pine, and vanilla. The structured palate is powerful, with well-balanced tannins. Good acidity makes it very compatible with rich dishes.

The bottles have a very distinctive label with a beautiful graphic of the wind, blowing over the vineyard terroir. The price is also right. The SRP is under $10, for both the Tempranillo and the Gran Selection Garnacha, and under $14 for the Sierra de Viento Garnacha Old Vines. The two Garnachas are well worth every penny. When they become available towards the middle of 2010, look for them. They have Old World elegance, with New World aromatics and taste.

Salud!

© December 2009 The Oenophile Blog. All rights reserved.