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by Manos Angelakis
Grand Crus de Bordeaux
The Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux presented their 2004 vintage at a New York City tasting in mid-January with many of the château owners in attendance. The room at Avery Fisher Hall, though very large, was extremely crowded which made it difficult to hold a conversation with the vintners or visit all the tables, some of which were mobbed.
General observation: This is a vintage for the patient wine lover. Sexy, seductive, or opulent do not characterize most wines of the 2004 Bordeaux vintage now, but it is a good vintage that will reward the oenophile who will cellar these wines. At its current state, with the exception of a few wineries that presented reds almost ready to drink, this withdrawn vintage needs ample cellar time for the tannins and astringency to subside and aromas to properly develop. It will be very good after 10 years, but don’t bother opening these bottles now. Cellar... Cellar... Cellar.
More specifics:
St. Émilion. The wines from this area seem to be the most approachable of the 2004 vintage.
Château Figeac. Opaque purple color, bouquet of camphor, black currants, licorice, dried herbs and chocolate. With well balanced, powerful tannins, it is almost ready to drink now and will improve if cellared for 4 - 6 years.
Clos Fourtet. 2004 is not a notable successor to their impressive 2003. It does not possess the power or finesse of its predecessor, but it offers a dark purple color with a nose of raspberries, cassis, licorice, and smoke. This medium-bodied vintage offers moderate tannins. It exhibited more texture than many of its peers.
Château Angélus. The blend (60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc) is fruity with blackberry flavors. The 2004 vintage is rich; the licorice and plum are very present on the palate. Long, rather astringent finish with spicy notes. Cellar for at least 5 years.
Pomerol.
Château la Conseillante. Situated next to Château. Pétrus, this property is now considered one of the top estates in Pomerol. Predominantly Merlot (81%) with the balance being made up of Cabernet Franc, this is a soft fruity wine, with a bouquet of plums, raisins, and raspberries, with spice and vanilla adding further complexity. Medium/full body. A couple more years in bottle should be sufficient; but I would probably hold off for the 2005 which, from all reports on the barrel samples, should be extraordinary.
Château Gazin. Rather thin. Plum and smoke emerge in a nice length. I still have a few bottles of the much better 2001.
Haute-Médoc & Médoc.
Château Cantemerle. A very dark, deeply colored wine, with a bright purple rim. Rather quiet on the nose, just showing some primary black fruits. Similar fruit impact on the palate, backed up by some rather firm tannins and an attractive acidic backbone. There is good structure and balance. This will be very decent one day, I am sure. Needs 6-8 years.
Château Greysac. This is a Cru Bourgeois that can play side by side with the Big Boys. Nice nose of plum and cassis with hints of vanilla and cigarbox adding complexity. A rather smoky finish; very firm tannins. Lighter body than usual, but seems to be close to be ready to drink now.
Margaux.
Château Brane-Cantenac. Still in diapers! Too young, too astringent. Very full body. This is the wine you age for 10 to 15 years and then it will be outstanding.
Château du Tertre. A lovely color, but rather shy on the nose. Dark fruit, with plum and vanilla notes that are no doubt oak-derived. Low acidity and rather light body. One-dimensional on the finish, but it has potential.
Château Kirwan. Subdued on the nose, reticent but not completely shut down, showing just a little perfume of fruit. It is showing a lot of tannins, but there is good texture, and appropriate acidity. Closed on the palate, however the intrinsic quality is all there.
Château Beychevelle. A blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot, Beychevelle is showing thinness, not quite the quality I might have hoped for. Upfront black forest fruits indicate good maturity, but the nutty oak notes are very perceptible. Should eventually drink well.
Saint-Julien.
Château LaGrange. Subdued and raw today with flavors of black cherry and fresh herbs. Currant, tobacco leaf and espresso on the nose with hints of cigar box. There's lots of substance on the palate, which is pure and concentrated. Hopefully, it will take on body as it ages. Blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot.
Château Léoville Poyferré. It is an impressive wine offering a deep ruby/purple color as well as a nice nose of cassis and cherries with hints of smoke and cigar box. Medium body, good depth of fruit, ripe tannins and admirable concentration. It’s not a blockbuster like the 2003 vintage, but rather a classic Bordeaux. Will be ready to drink after 2 or 3 years of cellar time.
Sauternes - Barsac.
Château Doisy Daëne. Beautifully aromatic, with a bouquet of tropical fruit, cashew nuts and peaches, this light-gold hued wine offers excellent fullness on the palate and its intensity is perfectly balanced by high acidity. Fresh and hugely appealing.
Château Suduiraut. Aromatic, fruity but not as lush as the Doisy Daëne. Compared to the other Sauternes wines on show however, it has a welcoming, open, fresh and vibrant nose, with aromas dominated by honey and pineapple. The palate is really very fat and creamily viscous, with bright honeyed pineapple sweetness. The second best dessert wine in the tasting.
À votre santé!
Please note that we have also published the final version of the 2006 Harvest Report. To read the full report click here.
© February 2007 The Oenophile Blog. All rights reserved.
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