|
by Manos Angelakis
Bubbles… Bubbles... Bubbles!
When Friar Dom Perignon pulled a bottle of his new wine from its resting place in his cellar, he popped it open for the first time and reportedly exclaimed, “Come quickly! I’m tasting stars!”
Whether that is apocryphal or not, we owe a great debt to the good friar for developing one of the best, most festive, and most delicious of wine products, the sparkling wine. Of course, sparkling wines from France’s Champagne region are now exclusively called Champagne and top the list of luxury wines consumed around the world. But, it is not only Champagnes that tastes good, the entire family of white or rosé sparkling wines made from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Petit Verdot, Shiraz and a few other varietals and their blends, is worth exploring.
To celebrate the 4th of July, we called again together the “gang of the usual suspects” and tried a number of Champagnes, Spanish cavas, Italian sparkling wines and California bubblies. We started with the driest samples and moved on to the sweeter ending with aromatic, dessert sparkling wines. Actually, it is only after the 1920s that brut i.e. very dry Champagnes became the taste standard; before that, and especially when the good friar developed his sparkler, the sweeter bottles were considered best.
The gang applauded when we popped the first cork, a Champagne, Piper Heidsieck, 1998 Vintage Brut. I like this Champagne and often use it as a standard for comparison. It has fine bubbles for a gentle effervescence. Subtle floral notes of dried apricots, grapefruit, and fresh figs are intertwined with elegant touches of tobacco and leather, and adding hints of nutmeg and mace to the long finish. The gang finished their glasses and asked for more, but there were many samples to taste. We rated it at LWM94 points.
The second sample was from Nicolas Feuillatte, the 1997 Palmes d’Or, Brut. This is a super-premium version of the Feuillatte Champagnes and comes in a black velvet sack that contains a distinctive, dimpled bottle. The Champagne is pale gold colored with yellow highlights. Bone dry, it is crisp, bright, and complex, gentle mousse, more yeasty than the nose would suggest, with a well-structured palate. Rated at LWM93 points.
The third sample was another Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne, the Millésime Cuvée Spéciale 1999. A beautiful champagne with a delicate mousse and aromas of brioche, pear, and white flower blossoms made from handpicked grapes from some of the better Champagne vineyards. We enjoyed it very much, though a couple commented that it was a little too delicate for their taste. I thought there was a very good balance between acidity and smoothness. Rated at LWM91 points.
The fourth Champagne was the Besserat de Bellefon, Brut Cuvée des Moines, Blanc de Blancs. This, new to us Champagne was lovely. The color is a very pure bright golden. The intense nose reveals fresh citrus zest notes, matched with well-developed fresh bread crust and toast aromas with hints of acacia. The palate is a bit on the acidic side but a couple years in the cellar should balance it very nicely. This Champagne is under-priced for the quality it represents. Rated at LWM89 points.
The fifth was also from Besserat de Bellefon, but this was a Cuvée des Moines Rosé, non vintage sparkler. 47% Pinot Noir, 43% Pinot Meunier, 13% Chardonnay. Pale salmon, with a light strawberry rim. There is a lot of strawberry fruit and dry cherries on the nose, soft, off dry, with a red stone fruit note dominating the palate. There is a touch of cognac taste on the long finish. Vivid, it worked very well with the food it was paired. Rated at LWM89 points.
The next bottle was Segura Viudas, Brut, Reserva Heredad, a cava (sparkling wine) from Catalonia, Spain. Made in the méthode champegnoise, it is for me a standby for festive occasions that do not require an extremely complex libation; it is creamy and supple, considerably yeasty on the nose with dry apple flavors wrapped in spice and minerals, and a slightly dry finish. The gang loved the decorative bottle. I like what’s inside, but a bottle that tastes decent and, when it is finished, the younger set can turn into a lamp, is always a bonus. Rated at LWM86 points.
From Italy came the Ferrari Brut, non-vintage, 100% Chardonnay sparkling wine. This is an interesting creamy, straw yellow sparkler from Trentino, with a lively and persistent mousse and aromatic notes of baked apple, gingerbread, and yeast that linger on the finish. Rated at LWM89 points.
Also from Italy, Altemasi Reserva Graal. It is a classic sparkling wine created from a small group of high-altitude vineyards in Trentino’s Cembra Valley. A blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. A straw/light gold hued wine with faint green edges. Persinstant mousse and very fine bead, with toast and hazelnuts on the nose and hints of yeast and honey. A well structured libation, dry and very elegant. Rated at LWM90 points.
Bottega Petalo - Vino dell’ Amore is a fine sparkling, highly aromatic, demi-sec spumante from Moscato grapes. While a number of Moscato sparklers we had in the past were cloyingly sweet, this is a delicate sweet wine, crisp with enough acidity to be very enjoyable. Aromas of roses with notes of peach, melon and sour apple. Palate is well balanced; fruity with a fine persistent mousse. The gang loved it. At a suggested retail under $15, it is a real bargain. Rated at LWM92 points.
California has a long history in the sparkling wine business. Many of their sparkling wine producers are related to French Champagne houses. Talking about French influences, Mumm Napa Brut Prestige was a lovely sparkler produced in the traditional champegnoise method and it delights with subtle aromas of apple, melon, and citrus, with firm acidity and a crisp structure. A blend of mostly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with a little Pinot Meunier and Pinot Gris, it is medium bodied, with excellent mousse and a rich lingering, slightly nutty finish. Rated at LWM91 points.
Another Californian sparkler that we had at the end of the tasting as it was solidly on the demi-sec side was Sofia, a Monterey county sparkling wine from the Francis Coppola vineyards. This medium golden Blanc de Blanc has a little less alcohol than its European brethren, it is smooth, with a delicate small bead and a bouquet of pears, melon, citrus, and tupelo honey. Pronounced fresh bread crust and honey on the extended finish. Rated at LWM90 points.
To your health!
|
