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by Manos Angelakis
Nice California Wines
A few days ago, I tasted wines from a California winemaking couple, Jennifer and Joey Tensley. I found them to be exceptionally well crafted, juicy, aromatic and – thank God – not Parkerized; even though they have received high ratings from Robert Parker Jr. The Tensleys don’t own their own vineyards, they buy Syrah and Pinot Noir grapes from some of the best Santa Barbara growers and then vinify in a hands-on or in the case of the rosé feet-on, approach.
Of the five different wines I tasted, I liked the following three very much. Two were made by Jennifer Tensley, the Tierra Alta Vineyard Rosé, and the Turner Vineyard Pinot Noir, and the third was Joey’s creation, Tierra Alta Vineyard Syrah. These are small production, artisanal wines, and the prices reflect the labor-intensive approach.
2007 Lea, Tierra Alta Vineyard Rosé. 200 Cases Produced. Jennifer’s rosé is the only California wine I know to be made from single parcel, single vineyard Syrah grapes, picked specifically to be made into a rosé. Jennifer destemmed the grapes for this wine by gravity, and then crushed the grapes by foot with the help of her four-year-old son, Oliver. One has to admit that, compared to the crushing machines of other California winemakers, this is a very traditional approach that works. After four hours of skin contact for the juice to achieve a beautiful, deep pink tone, it was transferred to neutral French oak barrels, where it was aged for four months. This rosé is full-bodied, but soft and aromatic, and almost completely dry. Striking notes of strawberries, raspberries, spice, and rose-petals on the nose. Suggested Retail Price: $20.00
2006 Lea, Turner Vineyard Pinot Noir. 50 Cases Produced. Given the vineyard’s ideal location in the Santa Rita Hills appellation, it was clear that it was going make great wine. The wine stands out with notes of tobacco, plums, blackberries, and raspberries. It is earthy and spicy with just the right acidity, and a silky, rounded mouthfeel with a long finish. While this Pinot Noir drinks beautifully now, it will evolve over the next 6 to 8 years. Suggested Retail Price: $38.00
2006 Tensley, Tierra Alta Vineyard Syrah, 203 Cases Produced. The parcel within this volcanic ash based vineyard comes from a steep hillside, planted entirely with the 99 Syrah clone. This clone is known for its enticing nuances of minerals and earth, and you can certainly taste them in this bottling. 30% of the grapes for this wine were left as whole clusters. The remaining 70% were destemmed by gravity. Joey strove to let the vineyard speak for itself. He used only hand-punch-downs three times daily, neutral oak French barrels, and bottled the wine unfined and unfiltered. The 2006 vintage is dark ruby/purple with aromas of coffee, flowers, and chocolate and an intense, full-bodied core of black currant. The finish is long and elegant. Ready to drink now, but cellar it and it will evolve over the next ten years. Suggested Retail Price: $38.00
These wines are well worth exploring. Try to find them; they will reward you with tantalizing aromas, an elegant palate, and a long finish. Not to mention that we should be encouraging small producers, like this winemaking couple, that create high quality wines on a small scale.
Another California winery that provided tasting samples, Blackstone, is a much larger producer from Sonoma County. They recently introduced a Reserve tier. I uncorked a couple of these new offerings and I can say that, for the price, they are pretty quaffable.
The first bottle we opened was the 2005 Sonoma Reserve Merlot, a blend of fruit sourced from Russian River Valley, Dry Creek Valley, and Sonoma Valley. Aromas of black currant, plum, and raspberry with a hint of cigarbox; with a palate of black forest fruit, cloves and vanilla from the French and American oak barrels. Longish, aromatic, finish. Ready to drink now; I don’t think that cellaring will improve this wine in any appreciable way. Suggested Retail Price: $18.99
The 2005 Sonoma Reserve Pinot Noir, is an inaugural release and is made from fruit sourced from the Russian River Valley and the Sonoma Coast. A blend of cool climate grapes, 90% Pinot Noir, 4% Malbec, 3% Petit Sirah, and 3% Dolcetto. It is an interesting wine with intense aromas of dried cherries, plums, black forest fruit and cranberries. Structured tannins support a long finish redolent of oak and cedar. Short term cellaring might smooth the finish. Suggested Retail Price: $18.99
These wines are from a mass producer who makes over 11,000 cases of each wine, each year. Yet, they are eminently drinkable and available for immediate consumption. Congratulations to Gary Sitton, the Blackstone winemaker at Kenwood Winery, in the heart of Sonoma Valley.
To your health!
© February 2008 The Oenophile Blog. All rights reserved.
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