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By Manos Angelakis
Wines of Cyprus.
Cyprus is an Eastern Mediterranean island that has produced wine since time immemorial. Their best known wine, Commandaria is a sherry-like dessert wine produced since the Crusades, and the island is famous for it.
Commandaria means the commander’s wine and refers to the commanders of the Knights of St. John, as well as the commanders of the Knights Templar; both military orders had made Cyprus their headquarters after the Christian armies were defeated and expelled from the Holy Land by Saladin.
Unfortunately, in the past, Cypriot wine production was aimed at the Eastern European market where price rather than quality was key. Many village wines sold at restaurants in carafes are still produced without regard to quality, this leaves also, unfortunately, a lasting memory for many visitors who had not the chance to taste the much better Cypriot product bottled by the better producers.
The wines of Cyprus are made from indigenous grapes, and French noble grapes have also been planted in Cypriot vineyards; Xynisteri, Maratheftico, Mavro, and Opthalmo are the most popular local winemaking varieties, and some exceptional blends of local and noble varietals are also produced.
EuroWines represents most of the Cypriot wine industry in the US and we were invited by Dennis Droushiotis, the president of EuroWines, to lunch at Anthos to sample some of the wines imported in the US.
Anthos, the domain of Chefs Michael Psilakis and Costas Kalandranis, is an upscale Manhattan restaurant that has taken Greek/Cypriot/Turkish cookery and translated it into haute cuisine. The lunch was attended by numerous New York based food and wine writers, including yours truly, as well as members of the Greek and Cypriot wine industries and members of the diplomatic corps of both countries. It featured some of Mr. Psilakis’ signature dishes.
Coeur de Lion, a sparkling non-vintage blend of Ophthalmo and Grenache from KEO, was served with the pass-around appetizers that included canapés of Sardines & Cucumber with a Yogurt sauce; Halloumi - Cypriot white cheese that is grilled – and foie gras tourchon, with rhubarb kobosta (stewed preserve), Rabbit and Sweetbread “seftalia” with candied orange, ground pistachios and pickled mustard seeds; and Tuna Sashimi with pickled, raw and dehydrated watermelon and halloumi powder. A medium dry white Xinisteri the 2008 Mallia from KEO, was also served with the appetizers.
After we sat at the tables, a chilled Smoked Octopus with curly fennel, mushrooms, and preserved lemon was presented with two different 2008 Xinisteri dry wines, Olympus from ETCO, and Kamanterena from SODAP. These are bone-dry versions, soft, with medium acidity, well suited to the smokiness of the grilled octopus.
The main courses were:
A plate with two meats, a Duck “Gyro” with persimmon marmalade, caramelized onion and chili confit and a Lamb Tartare with beet and feta purée, and preserved fish-roe – a Greek version of “botarga” - on pita. A 2006 Stroumbeli, 100% Martheftiko from SODAP was served. This is a medium-bodied red, very dry wine.
Small portions of “Pastitsio” the Greek lasagna, came afterwards, with feta, lamb croquette, and a considerably garlicky béchamel on top. It was paired with the 2007 Olympus, another, a bit more substantial dry red from ETCO.
A roasted Lamb Saddle followed, served with cauliflower sprinkled with cinnamon and tomato. The cinnamon-sprinkled roasted cauliflower is very Greek indeed. A third Maratheftiko, the 2007 Heritage from KEO was served.
Greek coffee and dessert was offered at the end. Creating an authentic Greek coffee requires intimate knowledge of the process and the 94 versions, depending on the amount of coffee powder, sugar, and length of boiling. Anthos’ version was very credible indeed and according to my instructions i.e. very sweet and double boiled.
At the end, four versions of Commandaria were served. A young one (St. Barnabas 2002) from SODAP, St. Nicholas 1998 from ETCO, a 30-year old Centurion also from ETCO, and a 100-year old from KEO. The first one was too young, the last one just too old – though it had a remarkable taste. I believe the 30-year old was at a perfect point in its development.
And a great time was had by all.
© June 2009 The Oenophile Blog. All rights reserved.
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