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by Manos Angelakis
2007 Harvest Report.
Part I:
Europe
The 2007 harvest was cause for celebrations for most of the European winemaking community. The mild winter and variable spring weather, followed by a cool, slightly wet summer, gave a head start to the vines, causing them to grow rapidly and affecting an early and sudden budbreak during an unusually hot and sunny April. The slightly cool summer kept the vines in good health. By the third week of August, the sugar concentration in the berries had reached nicely high levels.
In general, harvest was possible 10 days earlier in France than in previous years, though in some isolated Burgundy areas violent hailstorms affected the growth and delayed the ripening process. The lower summer temperatures allowed for a longer hang time in Bordeaux, resulting in balanced wines from most producers. Wine expert Denis Dubourdieu, a consultant to a number of chateaux, says it's the first time in his 35-year career he has seen vines flower so early in the year, and grapes ripen so late. "This harvest will please the English," Dubourdieu said, "not the Americans who prefer something a bit riper. It will be a classic Bordeaux harvest."
In Germany, the estate-produced wines from both the Rhine and Mosel vineyards will be superb, though one producer lost most of his harvest in the Trittenheim vineyard from a hailstorm. Flowering began earlier than ever before, almost an entire month early, and under ideal conditions. Long hang times resulted in very ripe grapes but without the extremely high sugar content of “hot” years creating crisp, beautifully balanced, sweet, and very aromatic wines. Must levels - the level of juice in the pressed grapes - were higher than the last two years. The noble wines, especially Auslese and Trockenbeerenauslese will be plentiful and exceptional. Unfortunately, the mild weather is not expected to allow Icewines again this year, though some of the better producers are leaving grapes hanging on the vine, praying for an early frost.
In Tuscany and Piedmont, harvest was also approximately 10 days early, commencing with the whites (Moscato, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Grigio). The grapes were perfectly healthy and extraordinarily rich in aromas. Favorable summer rainfalls allowed the red varieties, especially Merlot and Sangiovese, much longer hang times resulting in outstanding quality levels. The result is full bodied, interesting and powerful wines. In Sicily, after a broiling summer without rain for 30 days and fierce, dry heat for months, the vendemmia started on August 22, ten days earlier than usual, but a number of the resulting wines will be “hot” and heavy, unless the winemakers intervene in the cellar.
In Slovenia, the harvest started three weeks ahead of schedule, which locals say is a first as far as they can remember. The winegrowers in Goriska Brda are expecting a good vintage, given that early vintages are usually better. However, the quantity is expected to be somewhat down compared to last year. Oenologist Cvetka Sakelsek said the vintage was looking good, having been spared the worst of the drought and disease. The first grapes to be harvested were Rizvanec (Mueller-Thurgau) and Muscatel.
The Portuguese harvest was not as successful as previous years in volume, but very successful in wine quality. Cool and rainy weather lead to the appearance of mildew, which has affected the production as far as quantity is concerned with a decrease of 15% to 18% in volume compared to 2006, especially in the northern regions. Quality, however, remained high resulting in fresh, fruity, and very balanced white varieties. Especially in the Dão and Estramadura areas, the good balance of sugar and acidity resulted in good to excellent reds, even though the harvest had been delayed by as much as 10 days. Actually, according to producer reports, the green harvest forced by the appearance of mildew has resulted in wines with very good concentration and phenomenal aromas.
In Spain, the vineyards affected by the spring hail storms recovered well, both in terms of healing and new budding. However there were some losses, with the worst registered in the north-eastern part of the country. White Riojas were picked early to retain fruit and acidity; they are meant to be enjoyed young. That said, a few classic Rioja producers, waited to pick their grapes so they can create aged white Rioja that is much longer-lived.
Salud!
© November 2007 The Oenophile Blog. All rights reserved.
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