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By Manos Angelakis
Lazio: Perfect Wines with Perfect Food
I followed the sage advice “When in Rome, do as the Romans do” and, during my visit to Lazio and Rome, I concentrated on eating local food and drinking local wines. It was a very rewarding experience.
Lazio is the province around Rome, starting from the Etruscan Coast and ending where the Ulysses Coast ends. We traveled mostly east of Rome, all the way to Minturno. According to the locals, this is the coast of Italy described in the Odyssey, as the domain of Circe and the Cyclops’. Based in Formia, a seashore resort town famous since Roman times for the villas the Roman aristocracy maintained along the coastline, we visited Roman imperial retreats and ancient and medieval cities.
The food was mostly seafood and fish, grilled fresh vegetables, and included massive helpings of Mozzarella di Bufala (Buffalo Mozzarella), and Ricotta di Bufala, both local specialties. I was surprised that very little pasta was served during our meals, actually the one time that we were served spaghettini in a ragout of San Marzano tomatoes and chopped baby octopus and cubed calamari, I had second helpings.
But the local wines were, as far as I’m concerned, the stars of the show.
I had, for the first time an obscure wine called, Falanghina. It is a light yellow, balanced, fresh, and savory with a floral/mineral profile, dry white wine. The grape variety originated in Campania. When dining in Lazio and Campania, the wine served on your table will most likely be a Falanghina.
We were also served a Malvasia and Trebbiano white from Cantina S. Andrea, labeled Circeo 2007 (I was hoping that it was not the same wine that according to myth turned Ulysses’ men to hogs – and thankfully, it wasn’t). It was an excellent complement to the antipasto of white marinated sardines, Neapolitan octopus salad, anchovy balls, fried smelts, and saltimbocca of fish and artichokes.
Another wine that came to our table was the Oppidum Moscato di Terracina. Moscato is one of the most widely planted grapes in Italy; it is mostly made into a sweet, frizzante wine with low alcohol. But the wine we had was a fantastic dry, aromatic and still Moscato di Terracina. That wine, paired beautifully with the bocconcini di bufala, and zuppa di porcini, castagne, e fagioli (soup of mushrooms, chestnuts and dry white beans) that were served to us on that day.
The local reds were pleasant, but not particularly remarkable. Perhaps, it was because we were following the recommendations of the restaurant chefs, who wanted to show off their best local dishes with the best local wines.
We had a ball. Excellent food… excellent wines… excellent company. What else can a traveler ask for?
To your health!
© November 2009 The Oenophile Blog. All rights reserved.
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