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byMorton Hochstein
Mercer Estates
For many years, The Hogue Cellars was one of the best kept secrets — if quietly selling nearly half a million cases a year can qualify as secretive in the wine world. Longtime grape grower Mike Hogue started the winery in 1982 and it eventually became the second largest in Washington state, behind giant Chateau Ste. Michelle.
Hogue made value wines selling in the $8.99-$12.99 range and his wines never got the kind of press attention they deserved, despite doing very well on the retail side. Consumers, however, kept the bottling line churning and Hogue Cellars growing. After selling to one of the giant conglomerates that were paying big bucks for wineries in 2001, Mike Hogue retired from the wine business but continued to sell grapes to the new owners.
In 2006, Mike Hogue went back into the business, joining with another veteran grower, Bud Mercer, and his brother Rob, and recruiting veteran Hogue winemaker, David Forsyth, to form Mercer Estates. It is a far smaller venture, proudly proclaiming itself “A Family Owned Washington Winery”. For its initial vintages, Mercer Estates drew from vineyards in the Yakima Valley, Horse Heaven Hills and the Columbia River Valley, with a longer-term goal of producing only estate wines.
The first vintages were unveiled early this year at Blue Hill restaurant in Manhattan and the fine hand of award-winning winemaker David Forsyth was evident. The Merlot/5% Syrah, comes entirely from vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills of Washington which the Mercers have been farming for four generations. It’s a warm weather region, blessed by cool nights which encourage the acidity needed to create a well balanced wine. The ’05 Merlot is a winner on first sip, lush and velvety with berry fruit flavors, calling up thoughts of chocolate and coffee beans on the palate. Drinkable now, it will be even better after three or four years. At $24, it’s a good buy when compared to comparable California wines.
Mercer’s deep, dark, brooding ’05 Cabernet also comes from the Horse Heaven vineyard and it benefited from a dry cold winter followed by a warm September and October. Though still young, it is well balanced with soft tannins and is rich in the cassis and cedar tones associated with older Cabs. It’s eminently drinkable now and retails at the same price as the Merlot, $24.
Mercer Estates showed three 2007 whites, a Riesling, Pinot Gris and a Sauvignon Blanc, each retailing at $15. They originate from vineyards in the Columbia River Valley and the Yakima Valley and, in the case of the Riesling, partially from vineyards near the winery. Each exhibits the care and skill of winemaker David Forsyth, showing off fruit and minerality and marrying well with fish, seafood and poultry and dishes that like a good white wine. My favorite was the Riesling, dry and tangy with a little more than one percent residual sugar, good acid and white fruit and light, tangerine flavors. Mercer’s initial showing is strong, and the future for this young winery is promising.
To your health!
© May 2008 The Oenophile Blog. All rights reserved.
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