By Manos Angelakis

I like good Pinot Noir wines. I have been looking for a structured, full-bodied, and gracious Pinot Noir that would stand out from the various mid and low -priced Pinots from California. Since the film “Sideways”, indifferent Pinots have been flooding the market. The California wine producers have been pumping out gallons and gallons of dull product just to satisfy the demand.

I recently discovered the Pinots from Bouchaine, a Napa Carneros appellation winery that is most notable for producing two beautiful red wines from their 95 planted acre Carneros vineyard. Their 2006 Carneros Pinot Noir is made from a blend of Dijon, Pommard, and Swan Pinot clones from their own vineyard and very select lots from neighboring Carneros vineyards. The 2006 Estate Napa Valley Carneros Pinot Noir is created from 100% estate grown grapes and is a great food wine that is subtle, yet complex and rich. The vineyard’s climate and terroir reminds me of Chile’s Casablanca Valley, another prime wine producing area that is directly influenced by the Pacific fog that rolls-in in the evening and the shallow, gravely soil.

In general, the 2006 Bouchaine Pinot vintages have power balanced with perfume, and offer smoky overtones, dark cherries and berries with a touch of orange peel, tar, and vanilla, and a lingering finish. This is classic Pinot Noir on the nose and on the palate, ready to drink now, but will certainly benefit from some additional cellaring.

Bouchaine also produces an Estate Chardonnay. I am not a big fan of California Chardonnays; too many producers use too much malolactic fermentation and then over-oak the wine. Bouchaine’s 2006 Chardonnay was just one amongst the sea of Chardonnays that I recently tasted. Though the fruit in the wine is exceptional, I believe that they used excessive malolactic fermentation to soften the lean, citrus character of the Carneros grapes, and the oak notes overwhelmed the Chardonnay. But that might just be me. The 2006 has aromas and flavors of toast, honey, oaky vanilla, and caramel, along with fruity citrus and green apple.

The other California producer I recently discovered is Jordan Vineyard and Winery.

It is located in Sonoma’s Alexander Valley where, in 1972, Tom Jordan purchased 1,500 acres.

The winery is known for cool climate Chardonnays (Russian River Valley), and Cabernet Sauvignon blends (Alexander Valley) with unique character. They hand-harvest and handcraft every bottle that is shipped throughout the United States and over forty international markets. Their other major product is California Certified Extra Virgin Olive Oil, a delicate blend of 55% Leccino, 35% Frantoio and 10% Pendolino, with a lot of fruit on the nose and a hint of pungency on the palate.

The red blend is approximately 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. They use both French and American oak barriques for 12 months, followed by 18-month bottle aging in the cellar. Elegant and food-friendly, the 2004 vintage recently released has a deep red color, a rich texture, and flavors of cassis, black cherry, violet, and smoke. I find the wine a bit oak-heavy, with rather pronounced tannins, but the finish is long and satisfying. Some additional cellaring, perhaps 3 to 5 years, should smooth out the tannins and allow the wine to develop into a complex and well-balanced charmer.

The light, bright yellow, 2006 Jordan Chardonnay is a typical cool climate wine, with great balance and finesse, and a clean and creamy texture. Fermentation takes place in small French barrels, and the wine spends two months sur lie. Total barrel time is about five months. Partial malolactic fermentation allows the wine to retain some natural acidity and sweet fruit. On the nose, it has citrus, green apple, nutmeg, and toasty oak. The flavor is bold with a long elegant finish and an interesting minerality. It is ready to drink now, but will gain in richness when cellared for a few years.

To your health and a Happy New Year.