|
by Manos Angelakis
More Sardinian Wines
In the previous issue, I mentioned the two Sardinian wineries I visited while being on the island and the wines I tasted and liked in these wineries (see Sardinian Wines).
There is a third winery Tenute Sella & Mosca S.P.A, which celebrated its centennial in 1999 and is part of Gruppo Campari. I was unable to visit them, because they were in the middle of harvest and, in addition, we were staying in Costa Smeralda, the northeastern area of Sardinia while the winery is on the west coast. But during the trip, I tasted some of the Sella & Mosca wines in Sardinian restaurants with typical Sardinian dishes and, on my return, I found that they were imported in the U.S. by Palm Bay International, which made me very happy, as I really liked them.
 The three Sella & Mosca wines that I liked very much, and was glad to find in wine stores near me, are: the 2005 Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva, 100% Cannonau (the Sardinian Garnacha clone that was imported from Aragon); 2003 Tanca Farrá, a blend of 50% Cannonau and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon; and 2006 Thìlion, a 50/50 blend of Torbato (another varietal imported by settlers from Aragon) and Sauvignon Blanc. Both the last two wines come from vines growing in the Alghero DOC along the northwest coast, in the Sassari Province. All the varietals, no mater what their derivation, have perfectly adapted to the Sardinian landscape and climate, and produce excellent wines. Considering the quality these wines represent, their suggested list prices are, indeed, very modest. 2003 Tanca Farra: $28.99; 2005 Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva: $14.50; 2006 Thilion: $31.50.
The 2005 Cannonau is still very young. It is opaque, very dark red, almost black, and exhibits concentrated ripe red forest fruit, tobacco, spices, and cigar box on the nose. The 2001 bottle I had in Sardinia was an excellent meat eater’s wine that matched very well the charcoal grilled piglet, sausage, and lamb dishes. I do not remember the vintage date of the Tanca Farrá I had as, after looking for more than three hours for a restaurant that was not reserved by large weddings to have lunch (all six restaurant we tried were similarly reserved), we ended up at a village far from the beaten path and I did not have my notebook with me. To make a long story short, our guide and I finished a bottle of the Tanca Farrá with our antipasto, grilled veal chops, and grilled vegetables. The wine was fat and chewy, rich and dark from the Cannonau but with a nose dominated by the late harvested Cabernet. Matured for 2 years in barriques and medium capacity oak casks and then 6 months in bottle before release; this was another of those Sardinian wines that the general public knows very little, but are known and respected by the aficionados. Thìlion, named after a chalk and sandstone promontory on the west coast where the vineyard is located, is a straw/gold colored charmer, with intense aromas of acacia honey against a hint of vanilla.
À votre santé!
© November 2008 The Oenophile Blog. All rights reserved.
|
