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by Manos Angelakis
More Summer Libations
My summer wines have to be fresh, light, aromatic and with enough acidity to stand against char-grilled foods and complex summer salads. Usually, cold climate white wines nicely fulfill these requirements and, in addition to the wines I mentioned in the August issue of LuxuryWeb Magazine, Rieslings from Germany, Sauvignon Blancs from South America, Pinot Grigio from Alto Adige and other Italian provinces, Albariños from Spain’s Galicia, Chardonnays from California and Crémant d’ Alsace, top my purchasing list.
Crémant d’ Alsace is a luscious sparkler; especially their “blanc de blancs” produced from the Pinot Blanc grape that creates delicate and balanced wines. Pinot Noir is the only variety used in Alsace to produce either a “blanc de noirs” that is light and elegant, or a rosé, a very charming bubbly, especially when served ice-cold. After aging for at least 9 months, the bottles are rotated, gradually moving from horizontal to vertical, neck down, so that yeast deposits accumulate in the neck. The bottle’s neck is frozen and the sediment is ejected by natural pressure. The resulting space is filled with a cane sugar wine of varying sweetness to achieve the traditional brut, sec, or demi-sec style.
At a recent tasting I discovered an exceptional Albariño, from Bodegas de Palacio de Fefiñanes, that is a perfect summer wine. Floral and subtly herbaceous, it has a silky body with a pleasing minerality and proper acidic balance. It was a perfect pairing with jamón Serrano, jamón Ibérico, and chunks of fresh Pecorino Romano cheese.
At the same tasting, I tried the Abbazia di Novacella Gewürztraminer 2006, from Alto Adige, a bright yellow wine that is fruity and refreshing, with fresh backed bread and wildflower aromas, an assertive acidity and a long finish. I had two glasses of this wine, one from a bottle that was sitting on the restaurant’s bar for a while and one from a just-out-of-the-ice-bucket bottle. The colder glass was much more attractive and refreshing than the warmer.
I also tasted and liked very much the Montes Limited Selection Sauvignon Blanc, Leyda 2007. This 100% Sauvignon Blanc is produced from low yielding vines grown in Chile’s Leyda Valley. Fermented in stainless steel, this powerful, full-bodied wine is bright and crisp, with intense aromas of peaches, pineapple, and tropical fruits. There are distinct but delicate herbal and mineral notes, typical of its cold zone origin with morning fogs, and low temperatures.
In the tasting, there were two Ruffino samples.
A 2007 Libaio Chardonnay - Toscana IGT and a 2007 Lumina Pinot Grigio – from the Friuli Venezia Giulia IGT.
Alcoholic fermentation for the Libaio took place in stainless steel, temperature-controlled vats. It did not undergo malolactic fermentation. An unoaked Chardonnay, it is straw yellow in color with greenish tones, fresh and complex with vibrant aromas of wildflowers, golden apples, figs and sage. Flinty notes are overlaid by hints of fresh bread from the lees aging. Flavors of orange peel and honey complement the lingering finish.
The other Ruffino wine was the 2007 Lumina Pinot Grigio. When the alcoholic fermentation was complete, the wine rested in stainless steel tanks, without malolactic fermentation, until bottling. Crisp, aromatic and full of body, Lumina is also straw yellow in color but with copper overtones. On the nose, it exhibits intense floral notes and aromas of pears and green apples. Minerality is balanced with hints of sage and freshly baked bread, making it a medium-bodied wine with a lean finish.
Finally, the 2007 Laxas Albariño. From Spain’s Rías Baixas DOC, this wine is pale yellow in color, perfectly balanced with fruity, floral notes and hints of green apple, pear and apricot. It has fresh acidity and a meaty finish.
There were other Rias Baixas and Alto Adige samples, but I thought that the ones mentioned above were truly outstanding summer libations.
À votre santé!
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