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By Manos Angelakis
There is a number of wines that I drunk recently, that I thought were excellent to very good; certainly good enough to talk about them.
From Argentina’s Mendoza, Kaiken Reserve and Kaiken Ultra.
These wines, made by Chile’s Montes winery in Argentina, are absolutely exquisite. The Kaiken wines – named after a wild goose from Patagonia that shuttles between Argentina and Chile – are full-bodied reds.
The best, in my humble opinion, was the 2006 Kaiken Malbec Ultra. 100% Malbec wine, from plush and ripe grapes, inky deep purple colored with dark berries, fig, espresso, and plum flavors and a touch of caramel and cigarbox on the nose. Medium-tannins frame a long, polished, smoky oak finish, rather acidic with plenty of peppery fruit. Well balanced between Old and New World in its flavor configuration. Well priced considering the quality, it is a wine that, though ready to drink now, will last and mellow when cellared for a few years. Lay down a few bottles and open 3 to 5 years from now. That’s what I’m doing.
Not far behind in quality is the 2007 Kaiken Malbec Reserve. It has a very dark purple hue. A little harsher than the Ultra (no wonder, it is a year younger), it is meaty and ripe, with plum and blackberry flavors; graphite and peppery oak at the finish. It is perfect for year round consumption. Excellently priced, it should delight New World wine lovers.
The 2006 Kaiken Ultra Cabernet Sauvignon is a testament to what a knowledgeable winemaker can achieve given properly ripe fruit and a good winery. It is actually 96% varietal Cab and 4% Malbec. The grapes come mostly from vines over 50 years old. Bing cherry and vanilla notes are most prominent on the nose; on the palate, berry, tobacco, cassis, and a touch of eucalyptus. This wine has a firm tannic structure. The lengthy finish, features black fruit, espresso and mocha notes. It is a fat wine that will improve in the cellar for at least 5 or 6, years and should drink well for a few after that.
2007 Kaiken Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. A deep purple hue that slightly fades at the rim. Vanilla nose, oak and tar, lead to stewed plum, red cherry, green pepper and raisiny flavors. Silky texture in the mouth leads to a finish that is smooth and lasting. Not as fat as the Ultra, but it has the same heritage and can hold it's own. Very well priced for the quality.
From Argentina, we move back to Europe and specifically the Languedoc- Roussillon. Château d’ Aussières has made wine in Corbières since the Roman era. Acquired in 1999 as a partnership between Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) and Domaines Listel, the property has undergone a vast rehabilitation program. 158 hectares of vines have been replanted with carefully selected traditional Languedoc grape varieties: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Carignan, complemented by Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay.
Château d'Aussières follows the practice, common in Corbières, of vinifying some of its varietals using carbonic maceration (a quick technique usually associated with simple wines), then aging the wines in new and used oak, before blending the result with wines made using conventional fermentation. The blend of varietals and vinification techniques brings significant improvements in flavor and texture.
Syrah dominates with some Grenache and Mourvèdre. The wine is very dry, with mid-level acidity and a medium body. The nose is pronounced, very rich, led by nutmeg, rose, and violets, with some licorice and a hint of smoke. The palate has plenty of red fruit (cherry, strawberry, cranberry) with hints of earth, oak, chocolate, vanilla and spice. The finish balances tangy red fruit and smoke, with a dark chocolate aftertaste. This wine is well balanced and very Old World in its flavor configuration.
To your health!
© May 2009 The Oenophile Blog. All rights reserved.
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