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by Manos Angelakis
Summer Wines
The temperature is rising and it is time for chilled, light, fruity, aromatic, not very complicated wines to pair with the summer fare. During the warm months, we eat a lot of salads, fruit, fresh cheeses, seafood and vegetables, and we love outdoor grilling. So, the wines we drink have to be appropriate.
We called together “the gang of the usual suspects” and asked for their summer wine preferences. Not surprising, rosés and white wines topped the list. Surprising though was the fact that most of the wines mentioned were at the lower price range, mostly under $20 retail, many ranging in the $8 to $12 per bottle. A number of sparkling wines were also included.
So, without much ado, this is what the gang is drinking this summer:
Whites.
Jean-Baptiste Adam, Crémant d’ Alsace. A non vintage brut, slightly fruity sparkler. Toasty citrus, with plenty of fizz. Under $19 suggested retail, which is well priced for a very enjoyable bubbly.
Maschio dei Cavalieri. A very fine Prosecco di Valdobbiadene. I have introduced this prosecco to the gang and it toped practically everyone’s list. Tiny bubbles and a frothy mousse, it tastes primarily of lemon and lime with hints of fresh-baked bread and apricot. You could pay much more for a Superiore di Cartizze, but this is as good as the best, without the high price.
2007 Montes Sauvignon Blanc, Limited Selection. A lovely, highly aromatic, and fruity wine from Chile’s Leyda Valley. Though just released to the US market, it topped a number of our lists.
2006 Hacienda Araucano Sauvignon Blanc. From Chile’s Central Valley, the Lurton brothers create an aromatic, off dry, charming wine.
2006 Santa Julia Torrontes, from Mendoza Argentina. Dry, white peach and floral nuances; this is a medium aromatic wine, unmistakably reflective of its place of origin.
Dr. H. Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggaef, 2006 Classic. The drier version of a Mosel Riesling (12% alcohol, by volume) from a famous vintner. When it comes to Rieslings, this is one of the best producers. It is from a family run vineyard, in the same family since the 1850s.
Another Classic was the 2005 Dr. Fischer Riesling, also from the Mosel area. A barely sweet wine with pretty aromas of pear, apricot, and lime. It is almost creamy on the palate with a nice balancing acidity.
A third Riesling also made the lists, 2006 Noble House Riesling. This is a sweeter version, 9% alcohol, by volume. Peaches and apricots on the nose, honey, pears and peaches on the palate. Well balanced with nice acidity.
Some selections piqued my interest.
I had never seen before in the US, the Vicar’s Choice, 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, from Saint Clair Estate Wines of Marlborough New Zealand. I know this wine from a trip to Stockholm, Sweden, where it is very popular with the younger crowd. I’ll taste it again and let you know in a different story. But, it showed up in at least two lists.
Another interesting selection was the 2006 Colombelle, from South West France, a blend of 70% Colombard and 30% Ugni Blanc. These two varietals are indigenous to Gascony, you know that part of France that d’ Artagnian – the Alexander Dumas character in Three Musketeers – supposedly came from. It is crisp and floral with a dry, citrus, tropical fruit, and peach palate.
Rosé:
The Côtes de Provance, is the source for a number of the better rosé wines the gang quaffs this summer.
The 2006 Domaine Houchart, topped many lists. A blend of 35% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 20% Cinsault, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% other grape varieties, it is a fresh and fruity wine with flavors of red berries. Salmon-pink in color, off dry, with a clean but short finish. We had a bottle with grilled mahi-mahi, and we loved the way the wine complemented the slightly oily fish.
Another rosé that was in many of the lists was the 2006 Commanderie de la Bargemone, from the Coteaux d’ Aix en Provence. A famous estate of the Coteaux d’Aix, the Commanderie was a center of the Knights Templar almost a thousand years ago. They produce a yearly average of 30,000 cases of a dry rosé, 15% of which is exported to the US.
One of the gang was very passionate about the 2006 Domaine de la Sauveuse. It is a rosé made from certified organically grown grapes, a blend of Syrah, Cinsault and Grenache. Notes of fresh peaches and anise, with violets overlay. Delicate, slightly spicy palate. Raisins on the persistent finish.
One of my favorite rosés is from the Château de Pourcieux, at Sainte Victoire. The 2006 is delicious, served chilled and is made from 60% Syrah, 20% Grenache, and 19% Cinsault with a minor addition of Cabernet Sauvignon. In order to retain the original aroma, fermentation temperatures are maintained at a controlled level of approximately 16°. Bouquet redolent of strawberry, raspberry, and has a very light mineral edge. Taste, initially full-flavored, gives a palate of strawberry and citrus fruits.
Another rosé that I personally like is the 2006 Hacienda Araucano, Carmenère Rosado. Another Central Valley Chilean, it has a little more substance and a little more aroma than its French cousins. Paired with grilled seafood, shrimp, large crayfish, lobsters, or even calamari on the charcoal, it can stand up to and complement the intense tastes.
À votre santé!
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