By Manos Angelakis

In Bordeaux, the Right Bank has many of the second, third and fourth tier wineries, including some that were rated as Grand Cru wineries in the 1855 classification.

At the Universal Exhibition of 1855 in Paris, the "Chambre Syndicale de Courtiers de Bordeaux" (the Trade Association of Wine Merchants in Bordeaux) distinguished 61 high quality wineries; and since then, the buying and selling of French wines has been highly influenced by that classification, even though nowadays there are excellent wineries that were not in existence in 1855, and numerous wineries listed in the 1855 classification have slipped way down in quality.

We had an en primeur tasting – i.e. barrel samples, prior to the general bottling and release of the wines to the market – of the 2009 vintage and it was quite impressive. It was a very welcome experience after the extremely poor showing of the 2007 Bordeaux vintage, during an earlier tasting of the Grand Crus (see Grand Crus de Bordeaux). As a matter of fact, there were also a few 2007 samples shown at the tasting by a couple wineries and they reinforced in my mind the fact, that as far as I’m concerned, the 2007 vintage is one of the worse Bordeaux vintages in the last couple decades.

But, on to the 2009 vintage. There were 32 en primeur exhibitors and, in general, the wines were still fairly tannic and most showed very grapey characteristics that should subside with additional barrel aging. I noticed that many of the wineries were using strictly new barrels and barriques to age, that made the wines oaky; again that should ameliorate with bottle aging.

My notes for specific producers:

Château Dalem (Fronsac). They showed a 2005 sample next to the 2009 vintage. The 2005 was almost ready to drink – a very nice on the palate blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The 2009 was a barrel sample, considerably tannic, but with a nice fruity nose and a black forest fruit rather long palate. It will benefit with judicial aging, probably will be ready to drink in 2 to 3 years from purchase. Keep it longer, let’s say 5 to 8 years, and it will be a very welcome addition to any table.

Château Hostens-Picant (Sainte-Foy). 2006 sample, fruit forward nose, still too young. The 2009 barrel sample was very similar to the 2006, but even younger – both vintages will need at least 5 years in cellar before they are enjoyable.

Château de La Dauphine (Fronsac). The 2003 sample tasted like what I consider an outstanding Bordeaux should taste. If the 2009 vintage develops anywhere near what the 2003 vintage tasted, it should be spectacular.

Château Moulin Haut-Laroque (Fronsac). I did not see an earlier vintage. The 2009 was rather nice, still very tannic with a slightly biting alcoholic finish. Hopefully, it will remain in barrel for a few more months before it is bottled, otherwise it will need long bottle cellaring to become enjoyable.

Clos l’ Eglise (Pomerol). This is a Pomerol vintner who should have kept the 2007 sample back at the winery and not brought it to the tasting. By contrast, though the 2009 barrel sample was very tannic, it showed an almost balanced body with little oak, but with a short finish. Again, too young as tasted.

Château Vray Croix de Gay (Pomerol). The 2009 sample was a very agreeable wine that was very close to be ready to drink. By the time this vintage has been bottled, hopefully it would have lost the rather tannic back end, retaining the very pleasant, plumy and jammy nose.

Château Siaurac (Lalande de Pomerol). Being close to a great vineyard also means that you have a very similar terroir and are influenced by the same climactic conditions. The 2009 barrel sample was slightly on the tannic side, especially at the medium length finish. But, it will age well and should be as good as its neighbor and just as enjoyable, at a lower price.

Château Barde-Haut (Saint Emilion Grand Cru). The 2009 sample was another very agreeable bottle from an area that seems to be more consistent in the quality of its wines in the last 10 or so years. Young, fruity nose, slightly tannic, especially at the medium finish. A few years of bottle aging should do wonders for this vintage.

Château de Pressac (Saint Emilion Grand Cru). Another pleasant, well crafted 2009 barrel sample. Young, very fruity, well developed mid palate, did not lack the spiciness of well-rounded tannins.

Clos des Jacobins (Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé). A well established Grand Cru winery that, as far as I’m concerned, has always lived up to my expectations. The 2009 vintage was no exception. Well crafted, a longish slightly tannic finish. It will age very well.

Château Le Prieuré (Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé). The 2009 sample was almost close to be ready to drink. One of the few wines in the tasting that had developed enough to show a rather long, agreeable finish. Purchase and cellar for at least 3 more years; you will be amply rewarded.

À santé!